Every pattern needs marking so the machinist understands how to put the pattern together. Markings can include notches, grainlines, darts, tucks and gathers. Without having the correct markings on a pattern the pattern is not production ready.
DARTS
A dart is used to add shape to a garment on low-stretch or non-stretch fabrics. Darts are marked on the pattern and often marked on the fabric with a notch when cutting.
CUT ON FOLD
You must mark "cut on fold" onto your pattern as it marks where you are meant to fold the fabric when you place the pattern on it. The pattern piece must align with the fold of the fabric. Cutting the fabric on the fold is used for one symmetrical piece of a garment for example the front or back.
NOTCHES
A pattern must fit together and the seam allowance must line up. If the pieces don't fit together there will be issues going into production. Putting notches on a pattern ensures your pattern goes together correctly and makes it easier for the machinist to line up the seams. A single notch is used for the front pattern pieces and a double notch is used for the back pieces.
GRAIN LINES
Grain lines reference the direction of the fabric grain when it is cut. It is important a pattern has this as it can change the way the fabric hangs and also helps the tailor line up the fabric when it is cut.
BUTTONHOLES
If your garment has buttons buttonholes and button placements must be added to the pattern to indicate exactly where they sit on the garment.
At The Pattern Room we ensure our patterns are production ready, making sure they are marked correctly and fit together perfectly!